PATH DEPENDENCE. At the beginning of the month, I
suggested the possibility of an inspection of the Chicago-Detroit corridor. With the
postponement, until August, of the steam train to the Wisconsin Dells, I had the time and the inclination to travel.
To
continue a recent theme, I'll open with an inspection of the timetables. In the summer of 1954 (and the world has been a better place since the summer of 1954 than it otherwise would be, this history notwithstanding) the New York Central offered a morning schedule called train 376,
The Chicago Mercury: Chicago (Central Station) 8.30, Woodlawn 8.40 central, Niles 11.14 eastern, Kalamazoo
12.01, Battle Creek
12.30, Jackson
1.15, Ann Arbor
1.58, Detroit (Michigan Central Station)
2.45. The train offered "Reclining Seat Coaches - Porter Service, Dining Service, Observation Parlor Car (N.Y.C. Car) and a Tavern Lounge Coach." You could look it up: page 189 of the June 1954
Official Guide. New York Central passengers had to know their Chicago. The Cleveland, New York, and Cairo service, as well as
The Wolverine, in those days the Chicago - Detroit - St. Thomas and points east sleeper train, left from LaSalle Street Station (behind the Board of Trade) while the Detroit, Indianapolis, Cincinnati, and Charlotte service left from Central Station (lost under the Central Station towers today, and not to be confused with Grand Central Station, the vacant lot south of Congress at Franklin). The reference to "N.Y.C. car" tells us the parlor car is not operated by The Pullman Company. By 1954 the train was probably diesel-hauled, although there were a few Super Hudsons (
not as fast as Milwaukee's, streamlined or not, not as pretty as Boston and Maine's Pacifics) left on the ready tracks.
In the summer of 2008, Amtrak's morning service is called Train 350,
Wolverine: Chicago (Union Station) 8.30, Hammond-Whiting 8.57 central, Niles 11.09 eastern, Dowagiac 11.21, Kalamazoo
12.10, Battle Creek
12.40, Jackson
1.30, Ann Arbor
2.09, Dearborn L
2.46, Detroit
L3.15. The train offers "Business Class Service, Cafe, Coaches." Business Class is Amtrak's parody of what we used to call Parlor Car service. The carrier has imposed on us 2-1 non-rotating seating, a configuration that the New Haven Railroad attempted to impose on passengers 60 years ago to great resistance. The
L notation indicates the train will receive or discharge passengers but warns the train may leave ahead of the scheduled time.
The trains are on different routes between Chicago and the east interlocking limits of Porter, Indiana, where the Michigan Central used to cross the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern. Penn Central routed the Detroit trains onto the Lake Shore at Porter and onto the Pennsylvania at East Chicago.
In the intervening years, Amtrak has obtained ownership of the trackage between Porter and Kalamazoo, and in cooperation with the Michigan Department of Transportation, it has upgraded the line with fencing, signs warning HIGH SPEED TRAINS at all the level crossings, and improved track and signalling with the intention of running 110 mph trains. There are a few more stops on the line now, and a more frequent service, which has advantages and disadvantages.
A few years ago, the Michigan Department of Transportation, Amtrak, and the operating railroads rearranged the service to avoid using Detroit's crumbling and badly located Michigan Central Station and to expand service as far northeast as Pontiac. Thanks to the
Bluewater Michigan Chapter's excursions, I had already logged trips on the trackage. If mileage collection is not the objective, where to turn back? (A trip out on the first eastbound train in the morning is a guaranteed return, as the same stock returns as the last westbound train.)
Consider the possibilities. The street view feature in Google Maps can be helpful.
Ann Arbor? Plenty of time to stroll uphill, browse the original Border's, check the used book store, find some exotic eats, marinate in the
academic-blue-state-smug.
If you seek the fruits of their policies, look around you.
Dearborn? Ample parking for commuters, if they ever ran commuter trains, but with all the office parks around this would be where the commuter trains set down passengers, not take them up. No services.
Detroit? The new station is at New Center and close to the Cultural Center. There were a few no-walk zones between the New Center and Wayne State, and on a summer Friday afternoon, Wayne was pretty buttoned up even years ago.
Royal Oak? Until the end of Grand Trunk's commuter service, there was an agency station at Eleven Mile, with a downtown including boutiques and cafes nearby.
Birmingham? Grand Trunk planned a four-track, electrified suburban service with Bloomington playing the role of Homewood and Pontiac the role of Markham. They built a fancy station that was at one time converted to a restaurant. Get off the train, get in the Escalade, fort up in the trophy house, appease the trophy wife.
I never could come to terms with the social stratifications of Southeastern Michigan. Smug without the pretensions of a better world is still smug.
Pontiac? Log the entire route. Get off where Woodward Avenue turns into Wide Track Boulevard. Possibly some downscale fast food or some party stores nearby.
At one time, there were more Michigan Lottery outlets along Woodward Avenue than there were in the entire Upper Peninsula.
Decisions, decisions. Come along for the ride.
Amtrak
Wolverine 350, Chicago to Pontiac, 20 June 2008: P32 diesel 29, Amfleet business-cafe 48165, Horizon short distance coaches 54554, 54526, 54550, P32 diesel 32 (to save fuel, shut down.) Temperature in the 70s, partly sunny conditions, dry rail. I bought a Business Class seat, boarded at 8.05, and found some
Chicago Tribune material to post on. Leave Chicago 8.29:38 (I did not synchronize my watch with a standard clock), Hammond 9.01:05 - 9.02:03 central, Niles 11.10:24 - 11.12:20 eastern, conductor announces we will hold for two trains, stop at east end of two tracks 11.15:44, first Amtrak, probably 365 off Port Huron by 11.37, second Amtrak, probably 351 off Pontiac by 11.50, moving again 11.52:03, Dowagiac
12.02:10 -
12.03:20.
The path dependence really matters on this corridor. At one time, the Michigan Central was a double track railroad. During Alfred Perlman's presidency, New York Central very actively removed tracks and installed centralized traffic control. Kalamazoo to Porter was one of the first sections converted and singled. Jackson to Kalamazoo was reduced after 1975. New York Central had a freight line from Jackson to Elkhart that was its preferred routing for westbound freight. Conrail initially planned to abandon that line but concentrate the freight on a Kalamazoo to South Bend line, and it later moved the Michigan traffic to the main line by way of Toledo. (I don't know what Norfolk Southern is now doing. They had a strong freight presence in Kalamazoo and Battle Creek.) Thus did Amtrak become the owner of the Porter to Kalamazoo trackage. It's still a one-track line with controlled sidings. A few delays elsewhere on the corridor (not unexpected, the freight railroads are keeping commerce moving despite much of Iowa and some of Missouri and Wisconsin being out of bounds) more than negate the faster running possible (twelve miles in ten minutes is a 72 average, not bad for start-to-stop) with the upgraded track. On the other hand, more second track is also expensive, and a completely two-track line is an extravagance for a corridor with three Pontiac trains and one Port Huron train each way. Frequency matters, and additional trains reduce the fully-allocated deficit ignorant number-crunchers like to assign to individual trains or individual passengers. Kalamazoo
12.31:15 -
12.36:10. That's 36.1 miles in 28 minutes, not bad. Higher speed limits, however, might buy all of five or ten minutes, still not enough to salvage that 37 minute hold.
The long dwell times at stations illustrate one of the values of a corridor: the traffic is not so much Chicago - Detroit as it is Chicago - Ann Arbor, Niles - Jackson, Kalamazoo - Birmingham, Jackson - Pontiac, Ann Arbor - Royal Oak.
The train passes
Western Michigan University's
sports complex west of Kalamazoo: two new practice facilities adjacent to the enlarged hillside football field. More evidence of the positional arms race in the Mid-American, including
our new locker room.
Restrictive signals west of Battle Creek, freight train crossing to the Grand Trunk at the west end of shared trackage. Battle Creek
1.02:29 -
1.07:12. Restricted speed through Albion. There's recent wind damage in the adjacent trees, or is the city issuing speeeding tickets (I'm not making that up) to trains? Westbound 353, due out of Jackson
1.34, waiting in siding west of Jackson (thus do the delays accumulate); Jackson
1.57:59 -
2.01:15.
Still thirty down. The stock of the Michigan
Artrain, including former New York Central observation Babbling Brook, is in siding west of the Ann Arbor Railroad overpass.
The bookstores will make do without my money. Ann Arbor
2.40:54 -
2.45:36, Dearborn
3.17:34 -
3.20:29.
Classic Rust Belt. Two abandoned factories frame the ruins of the Michigan Central Station and office tower, behind the trees in the middle ground. I understand some of those office towers downtown are also abandoned.

Slow running on the belt railway to the new Detroit station, an Amshack above Woodward Avenue. Arrive Detroit
3.41:22. On one hand, we're less than 30 minutes late. On the other hand, we haven't done any better than Penn Central did for Amtrak in the summer of 1971. The Detroit school board tower is in the middle ground of the picture. The art institute, library, and Wayne State are nearby.
The walk south does not look inviting.

Leave Detroit
3.45:43. The connection from the belt line to the onetime Grand Trunk mainline is slow and convoluted, and we're running on restrictive signals. In the 25 years since the commuter trains stopped running, the railroad has become a single track freight line, and the crossing that allowed the commuter trains to get to the Renaissance Center terminal has been removed. The train crew is coming to terms with being delayed getting out of Pontiac (and we've seen what out-of-course running does to timekeeping.) Arrive Royal Oak
4.26:32. (You might have surmised this was where I would turn back.)
I don't recall sidewalk cafes on Main Street 25 years ago. They were already well-patronized, apparently early summer Friday getaways aren't limited to Chicago.
A suburb of the Motor City uses traffic-taming recesses for parking and provides bike racks?

Fifth Avenue has been closed to vehicular traffic for a beach party, apparently under the auspices of the Irish-themed tavern hard by the tracks. I found a cafe that sold a decent baguette sandwich across the street from that tavern.

The weather cooperated for this stroll around downtown. I don't recall this much commerce, or as edgy a mix of enterprises, 25 years ago.
Train time. The Eleven Mile overpass and the right-of-way north are wide enough for those four tracks. The concrete pad is where the agency station once was.

Amtrak
Wolverine 355, Royal Oak to Chicago, 20 June 2008: P32 diesel 32, Horizon coaches 54550-54526-54554, Amfleet business cafe 48165, P32 diesel 29 now along for the ride. Temperature in the low 80s, clear skies, dry rail. Leave Royal Oak
5.37:20, operate somewhat more expeditiously toward Milwaukee Junction, no tower interference at Milwaukee Junction, Detroit
5.56:12 -
6.00:21, Dearborn
6.20:37 -
6.22:40, train making up some time, runs over something west of Dearborn, much clatter on the undercarriage, stop for inspection
6.31:44 -
6.40:28, eastbound 352 holding east of Wayne Junction
6.47 (perhaps laid out by 353 which was laid out by 350 west of Jackson earlier in the day), Ann Arbor
7.06:29 -
7.10:00, Jackson
7.50:07 -
7.52:30. Stop for another inspection west of Jackson,
8.08:10 -
8.15:45, crew reports no defects, Battle Creek
8.54:18 -
8.58:25, smokers hit the platform with the departing passengers and get on behind the boarding passengers, held at CP Custer
9.08:25 -
9.15:27, no eastbound train, meet on-time 354 just east of Kalamazoo
9.33, Kalamazoo
9.36:03 -
9.39:51, Dowagiac
10.07:38 -
10.09:00, Niles
10.19:42 -
10.20:19 eastern.
Fast running is possible with no opposing traffic A proper corridor, however, has sufficiently frequent trains as to provide opposing traffic. Set down passengers Michigan City
9.51:32 -
9.52:10 central, ride yellow blocks Gary to Hammond, eastbound Lake Shore by near Inland Steel, Hammond
10.47:27 -
10.49:40, held at Bridge Junction
11.00:03 -
11.02:36, arrive Chicago
11.26:56, plenty of time to make the
11.40 to Elburn as planned.