FAR FROM THE INTERSTATE AND THE AIR HUBS. The first installation of this summer's trip report ended ambiguously, somewhere short of Winona, Minnesota. I subsequently learned that the difficulties continued. A tornado touchdown somewhere near Red Wing dictated a stop for a track inspection. The wine and my general tiredness overrode my usual instinct to awaken when the train is stopped for any length of time. I heard a small voice holler "Daddy" probably at the Twin Cities, well past her bedtime, and a radio report of departure at 4:14. For the most part, it was continued rest. I decided to start June 26 at Morris - Detroit Lakes, 7:55 - 7:57, not much by way of station facilities. A slow roll through Moorhead, Minnesota is followed by a double stop at Fargo, with arrival 8:53 and departure 9:15. The train is approximately six hours late, and headed into the remote territory in which it is the principal mass transportation mode. The schedule of a transcontinental train that handles large parties to Glacier Park ought not be tied so tightly to a daytime regional rail service in a remote part of the country. But a secondary train (Burlington Northern offered such service until Amtrak's inception) is not currently an option.

There was more rain, and thunderstorms. Grand Forks 10:28 - 10:33 in a downpour; there's a small blockhouse of a station along a curve. Several stops west of Lakota lead to a conductor's announcement of signal troubles, the train apparently complying with stop-and-proceed-at-restricted-speed rules for several blocks. Devil's Lake 12:15:42 - 12:17:07. Here the local train service objective collides with railway realities. Devils Lake, which has no outlet, rises and falls with the rain and snow received or not. Because Canada does not want the brackish water piped into the Red River of the North and into Lake Winnipeg, when the lake rises, the tracks are at risk of being submerged. Burlington has ended freight service between Devils Lake and Churchs Ferry and offered to reroute the Builder on the Fargo to Minot cutoff with a stop at New Rockford, the Builder's old Great Northern routing. The Western Star served the northernmost line at the end, with a connection to a coach-only remnant of the Winnipeg Limited at Grand Forks. Ownership of the line, or a new bridge paid for by Amtrak, are in the hands of Congress. Stop west of Leeds 12:45 to pick up a dogcatch crew, under way 1:07. Rugby, 1:36:32 - 1:38:58. Arrive Minot 2:34:51.


During our Twin Cities stop, the trailing coach was cut off, and the mechanical department solved our diesel problems by turning the motors end-for-end: note that 84 is now leading. The diesels get fuel, the road crews change, some supplies are put aboard the lounge car, and one resourceful family receives delivery of a pizza (there's sufficient cell phone coverage to place an order about a half hour away).

Leave Minot 2:59. The train hosts a wine-and-cheese tasting for first-class passengers. (Oregon and Washington wines, Wisconsin blue, 4 year old cheddar, and Gruyere.) These ladies won a bottle of wine for correctly answering how many "seconds" there are in a year. (Put the calculator away and don't overanalyze.) Bless me, this is pleasant, riding on the rail.


Stanley 3:49 - 3:52, meet stack train in siding, Williston 4:52:48 - 4:59:35, west end of Central Time Zone. This Great Northern Mountain is north of the station, in surroundings befitting its condition.


East of Stanley a substantial stone church and an abandoned town came up on me on the south side of the tracks. This abandoned school, in a still inhabited settlement, is somewhere west of Williston in North Dakota.


Wolf Point 5:38:55 - 5:48:28; Glasgow 6:28:49 - 6:31:54; Malta 7:28:44 - 7:29:15; Havre fuel racks 8:40:15 - 8:50:35; arrive Havre 8:52:04.


There was time to walk the platform and view a Great Northern Northern in somewhat better shape than the steamer at Williston. The diesels are fueled, the coaches watered, and sandwiches are put aboard to provide a lunch for sleeping car passengers on the Portland section. The train is due Portland at 10:10, with ample time to turn the stock for the 4:50 eastbound departure the same day. (What happens when the schedules are seriously disrupted?) Leave Havre 9:06:43, six hours two minutes in the bag, Shelby 10:48:02 - 10:54:10, set watch to Pacific time and turn in.

(to be continued)