He then went for a train ride.
Amtrak’s Empire Builder first served customers in 1929, as the flagship train of the Great Northern Railway. It currently operates two lines between Chicago and both Seattle and Portland serving customers at up to 38 different stations depending on the line. One of those stations is the Milwaukee Intermodal Station downtown, where I hopped on board the train about 15 minutes behind my scheduled 4:45 departure time.His attempt to return, on the other hand, illustrates why people are willing to put up with congested roads and cranky kids in the back seat.
After boarding the Superliner, I took stock of my immediate surroundings. The first thing that stuck out: the legroom. As a six foot tall man, I was able to fully stretch out my legs and still had room in front of me to spare. Additionally, carry-on rules are a lot less strict than air travel; one of my bags was basically a cooler full of Pabst Blue Ribbon cans and snacks for the trip.
After an attempted nap was thwarted by a nearby crying baby, I made my way to the dining car, where due to Amtrak’s communal dining policy, I was placed with Kevin and Moa. The Swedish couple was on their way to the Twin Cities to visit Kevin’s host family from his college days. Getting a European perspective on rail travel seemed like a smart idea.
“The biggest [thing] that plays a role is the environment” Kevin told me. “Most people say “Yeah I [ride the train] because going with my car is bad for the climate. And the government just pumps money into good trains and good buses, because they care about the climate.”
Moa added the idea of using a car as the sole mode of getting around didn’t make much sense to them, especially on long trips. “Yeah you can get where you want to go, but you deal with detours, and then you have to stay up and drive and find somewhere to sleep.”
After finally grabbing that nap we arrived an acceptable 20 minutes delayed in La Crosse at 8:30pm, basically the same time it would take to make the trip by car with a bathroom/gas stop.
By the time my scheduled 11:37am Sunday departure arrived, the train was somewhere in North Dakota and delayed by nearly 12 hours. Suffice to say I had no plans to wait for a train that would get me home at 1:15am. With a few taps of my phone on the Amtrak website, I was able to book a Thruway bus that would get me on the road at 4:00pm and arrive in Milwaukee just before 9. Not everyone was so lucky, however. One passenger attempted to get on the bus right as we were about to depart, saying he didn’t receive notice about how long the train was delayed. With no ticket for the bus, he was denied entry.Once he got home, he did some journalism.
How can delays on a mode of transportation in 2023 stretch to half a day long, and how can it be deemed a common occurance? Amtrak’s website has a whole page dedicated to the different reasons why your train might be delayed. The most common reason they cite is “freight train interference”, a side effect of Amtrak not owning a large portion of the tracks they operate their trains on outside the Northeast. But rail hosts only tell one part of the Empire Builder delay story.That deferred maintenance affects the regional routes as well. I took that picture last Friday enroute to Milwaukee, the people-watching in the Great Hall, even with the discombobulated long distance service, is generally compelling. At the time I booked a passage on the 1.05 departure, train 335, for Milwaukee, Amtrak advised me the train was 30% filled. That morning, though, the 8.05 departure from Milwaukee had mechanical troubles before it got to the airport station, arriving Chicago around 10 am, and it was taken out of service with no replacement rake available. Thus, those passengers who were expecting to go north at 11 am had to rebook, if possible, for 335, and the crew were announcing that they could not accommodate any passengers holding tickets on the earlier train. At Milwaukee, there were people waiting for both the early afternoon train that didn't run, and the return trip of 335 as 338. That's not good enough.
“On that route, there’s a lot of things that can happen” Passenger Rail Correspondent for Trains Magazine Bob Johnston tells me. One of those many things is breakdowns of long-distance train equipment. Johnston tells me that a lot of the replacements for this equipment is still put away, as a cost-saving measure. “Amtrak has not, despite what they say, prioritized returning this equipment to service. So that means, if there’s no spare equipment, and there’s a mechanical problem, then the train can’t leave the station or it becomes disabled en route.”












