INCENTIVES MATTER. Milt Rosenberg's guests Thursday night were two restaurant critics, Dennis Ray Wheaton and Ruth Reichl, and the book talk for the evening is Ms Reichl's new Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise. Beaneries appreciate good word of mouth, and this show described the work of people who are paid to provide that form of word of mouth in newspaper columns. (Keep in mind that non-railroaders don't have a sandhouse to share the word of mouth about good beaneries.) The most expensive beaneries keep the photographs of the newspaper restaurant reviewers on the employee bulletin board, and the reviewers go to great troubles to disguise themselves. The opening segment of the show featured Ms Reichl's story about obtaining a legend and a cover; apparently good tradecraft isn't for intelligence officers only. But it does make a difference: under her legend she was treated very badly by a famous New York beanery that seated her party while the King of Spain was waiting in the bar when she appeared as herself.