We've
understood this point for several years. Apparently, though, if you're going to report on the phenomenon for readers of New York's
Times, you have to
describe it in a word salad of elegant variation.
I stood beside the railroad tracks in the heat of the Texas summer, listening intently for the distinctive sound of a steam locomotive. Other than the cicadas chirping from the nearby mesquite trees, I couldn’t register anything out of the ordinary. I closed my eyes to heighten my sense of hearing — still nothing.
Suddenly the harsh dinging of a railroad crossing bell broke the silence. I flinched reflexively as the candy-striped mechanical arm descended to block the road a few steps away from me. It wouldn’t be long now.
Moments later, a metallic whine began emanating from the tracks to my right. The high-pitched sound of the vibrating steel railhead grew slowly more pronounced. Turning to look down the line, a faint glimmer of light caught my eye: The pulsing headlight of a vintage 4-8-8-4 steam locomotive had appeared on the horizon.
As it rounded a distant curve, the passenger cars trailing behind it came into view, curiously distorted by the heat waves that hung low over the roadbed. The wail of the locomotive’s whistle rang through the air, and steam exploded from the machine’s cast iron valves with a deafening hiss. I stepped back from the tracks and watched the steel colossus barrel by at track speed, the warmth of its boiler cutting through the ambient heat of the muggy August day.
The engine’s massive driving rods chugged back and forth repeatedly, propelling the old beast down the tracks. The locomotive’s tender followed immediately behind, its large white Union Pacific lettering passing in a blur. Then, almost as quickly as it appeared, the locomotive — Union Pacific 4014, the largest operating steam locomotive in the world — and its string of streamlined passenger cars disappeared around a bend.
It goes on like that for a few more paragraphs, before getting to the reporting on the spectators.
And the Big Boy would make dozens of brief whistle stops in small trackside towns along the way.
And so it was that in August 2021 I joined the crowd of rail enthusiasts following Union Pacific 4014 to Fort Worth. The Big Boy sat on static display as thousands of spectators filed into a gravel lot near the city’s Amtrak station. Youngsters — many of them dressed in engineer overalls and pinstripe caps — tugged at their parents’ arms in excitement. A steady parade of modern diesel locomotives passed by on adjacent tracks, their engineers and conductors leaning out the windows of their own cabs to get a better look at the mighty relic of yesteryear.
Are we reading about people turning out to watch trains, or have we gotten into that coastal anthropology in which the odd rituals of the Flyovers are subjected to anthropological scrutiny?
For many Americans, encountering a train is merely an inconvenience. Freight trains can block road crossings for long stretches at a time; their loud horns can be heard at all hours of the night; occasionally they even derail in a terrifying fashion. Never mind the fact that many of our consumer goods are moved by rail at some point, or that vital raw materials — steel, lumber, sand, petroleum products — as well as produce and other perishables are commonly transported on our nation’s freight rail system.
And yet, even to nonenthusiasts, there’s something mesmerizing about witnessing this particular locomotive — though I struggle to explain exactly why that is. Perhaps Union Pacific 4014 reminds us of a time when our communities were more connected with one another. During the golden era of railroading, after all, practically every major city and town in the United States was linked by passenger railroad. And in those days a town’s train station might have acted as the social hub of the community: It was where the day’s mail arrived, where telegraph operators sent and received messages from around the world, where loved ones shared teary goodbyes and joyful hugs of reunion, where marching bands escorted parades of fighting men as they marched off to participate in two world wars in as many generations — and where they returned home, both the living and the dead.
News flash: if it's in steam, people will turn out. Yes, Big Boy is spectacular, and yes, it is a railroad's more-than-grudging acknowledgement that people, not all of them train enthusiasts, take an interest in what the railroad does, at least when you're not
calling attention to your inability to switch the lineside industries. And yes, for some reason people still speak of "choo choo" and "
chugging."
Perhaps the Big Boy’s draw is more closely tied to the sense of awe one feels at our collective ability to harness simple elements like water, fire and carbon with such ruthless and graceful efficiency. Or maybe beholding steam locomotives like Union Pacific 4014 simply reminds us of the wide-eyed wonders of childhood, long since dulled by the seemingly endless demands of grown-up life.
Or, perhaps it's a welcome break from routine when you're far from the always-on temptations of Broadway.
My day in Texas ended at a former Southern Pacific rail yard some 25 miles north of College Station, where, as usual, a sizable crowd had gathered to watch the impressive train pull into town. Traffic on neighboring roads slowed to a crawl as motorists craned their necks for a view of the locomotive.
Big Boy let out a cloud of steam as it slowed to a stop just shy of a highway overpass. A few dozen onlookers climbed up the concrete embankment of the overpass to snap photos. Before long a local police officer showed up on the scene. Apparently annoyed by the traffic jam snarling the otherwise quiet town, he began shouting orders for the crowd to disperse.
It quickly became evident, though, that the die-hard train enthusiasts had no plans to comply. One gentleman turned to the officer and delivered a plea for mercy: The crowd wasn’t blocking traffic, nor were they doing anything illegal, he argued. Others in the group nodded their heads and echoed the same message. Sensing that the group of spectators wasn’t going anywhere, the officer gave up and walked back to his squad car in defeat. A cheer went up from the crowd before they turned their attention back to the star of the show.
Now, if Amtrak would also recognize that it has natural allies
among the train enthusiasts and the steam spectators, and
put on a competent show on board.
2 comments:
"our collective ability to harness simple elements like water, fire and carbon with such ruthless and graceful efficiency"...I'll agree with the 'graceful' part, but he should look up the thermodynamic efficiency of steam locomotives...
I don't have Margaret "University Diaries" Soltan's scathing online schoolmarm chops. I suspect, though, that those two paragraphs are overwritten and qualify as a word salad of elegant variation. With that kind of prose, accuracy isn't such a big deal. It's not the place for a thermodynamics seminar on why compound steam locomotives were a thing.
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