It was our good friend Nicky who gave us the idea. ‘If you’re already taking the night train to Vienna,’ she said, ‘then might I suggest you book tickets to Graz? The price will be the same and you’ll get to spend the morning following the Semmering Railway through the mountains. You can always have lunch in Graz and then catch a train back to Vienna in the afternoon…’The original Semmering Pass line is soon to be replaced by a long base tunnel. The mountain railroad will stay in operation for tourism.
It sounded like a plan. The night train from Berlin was due in to Vienna at 7am. By staying on board to Graz, we had the possibility of a lazy morning eating breakfast in our compartment rather than a bleary eyed stumble onto the platform. In one journey, we’d get to combine our love of the night train (which we have written about here before) with a trip along one of the most famous stretches of railway in the Alps. Indeed, the Semmering Railway was the first to be inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, “one of the great feats of civil engineering during the pioneering phase of railway building.”
That we knew of the Semmering Railway at all was also thanks to Nicky. Alongside Susanne Kries, Nicky Gardner is the editor of both hidden europe magazine and Europe by Rail, the definitive guidebook for independent travellers. One of the routes in Europe by Rail takes in the Semmering Railway, and its history as a UNESCO World Heritage Site was told by one of hidden europe’s regular email newsletters. So it had been on the list for a while, and as we set out from Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof on a sticky Saturday evening, it was hard to know which part of the journey we were looking forward to more.
The Semmering Railway begins at Gloggnitz and crosses the pass to Mürzzuschlag. In Gloggnitz we could see the workers busying themselves at the opening to the new tunnel that will eventually displace this route for most freight and long-distance passenger traffic, but for now the tunnel remained just a hole in the hillside as we passed by and began the long, sweeping assent up towards the village of Semmering.That "engineering marvel" builds on the work of the Baltimore and Ohio, and the historical material in Semmering acknowledges as much. It's probably churlish to note that the Semmering Pass line opened in 1854, the same year as The Pennsylvania Railroad's Horseshoe Curve, which might have that Engineering Heritage designation as well.
If you look down the train through the windows, especially on the stretch between Gloggnitz and Semmering, you can catch a glimpse of the engineering marvel that is the Semmering Railway. The train curves around atop beautiful brick viaducts before plunging into dark tunnels. All the while you are being lifted up and over the mountains – an altitude difference of 460 metres over the 41 kilometres between Gloggnitz and Mürzzuschlag.
On the other hand, if your plan, as these travelers had, was to spend some time in Graz (Mürzzuschlag has a few things to recommend itself, but perhaps the night train didn't call there) and return for the bulk of a day in Vienna, there's a lot more by way of passenger service on Semmering than on any of those North American counterparts. Amtrak's Capitol Limited is the only passenger service on Sand Patch, which would be difficult to bypass with a base tunnel, while the Western Maryland Scenic runs a Mallet Compound out of Cumberland on excursions. The original West End toward St. Louis now peters out somewhere near Athens, Ohio, although for now there is still a lot of coal to be moved. That's a pity. "It's also possible to imagine Brahms or Dvorak taking the air at Deer Park or the Glades and working on some music. The mind boggles at the thought of Brahms in Altoona or Gallitzin." Horseshoe Curve is still among the busiest mountain railroads, although with Penn Central, Conrail, and Norfolk Southern all having ways of moving more traffic to the east coast along the former New York Central, it's not what it used to be, and the one sad day train only connects to the Capitol if timekeeping is good.
















